Everything You’ll Need

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Step 1: Prepare the Space

Take Off Baseboards and Old Floors

Start by taking away the old flooring and baseboards to see the subfloor. This gives a clean area and helps the hardwood fit well.

Use a pry bar to gently remove baseboards, being careful not to harm the wall so they can go back later. Take off any old flooring and make sure all glue or staples are gone.

Clean and Make the Subfloor Even

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to clear dust, nails, or glue. Look for bumps or dips with a straight edge or level.

  • For bumps: sand them down.

  • For dips: use a leveling compound to fill and smooth them.

A flat subfloor stops squeaks and lasts longer.

Check for Wetness or Damage

Wetness is a big reason for hardwood problems. Use a moisture meter to check the subfloor and hardwood.

  • For wood subfloors: keep moisture below 12%.

  • For concrete subfloors: follow maker’s limits, often below 4%.

If too wet, stop and fix the problem first.

Put Down Underlayment or Barrier (If Needed)

Depending on the floor and subfloor, you might need an underlayment or moisture barrier:

  • Over concrete: use a barrier or underlayment with moisture protection.

  • Over plywood or OSB: use rosin paper, felt, or foam pad.

Follow the maker’s rules to avoid warranty issues and get the best results. Lay underlayment flat, without overlaps, and tape seams as needed.

Step 2: Plan Your Hardwood Layout

Pick Your Starting Wall

Usually, it’s good to lay hardwood planks parallel to the longest or most seen wall—this helps the room feel bigger. If doing more than one room, think about how planks will meet in doorways.

Use a chalk line to make a straight guide along your starting wall. This will help keep the first rows straight and the rest in line.

Get the Flooring Used to the Room

Before you start, let your hardwood planks get used to the room’s temperature and humidity for at least 48 to 72 hours. Lay the boxes flat in the room, and open the ends so air can move around.

This helps the wood fit the environment and lowers the chance of expanding, warping, or gaps after it’s installed.

Try Laying a Few Rows

Put down a few rows of boards without attaching them to see how your layout will look. This helps you:

  • Make sure the layout looks even in the room

  • Avoid thin planks by the walls

  • Plan for things like vents or doorways

Use this time to mix boards from different boxes to spread color and grain differences evenly across the floor.

Mix Up Seams and Avoid Patterns

To make the floor look natural, mix up the end joints of planks by at least 6 to 8 inches in nearby rows. Don’t repeat lengths or make “stair-step” or “H” patterns, which can make seams stand out.

Tip: Change up your plank lengths and switch them across rows for a more natural look.

Figure Out Material (Add Extra for Waste)

Measure your space’s square footage (length × width) and then add 10% for cutting waste, mistakes, and future fixes.

If your room has odd shapes or you’re laying on a diagonal, raise the waste amount to 12–15%.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

Before laying boards, choose the best installation method for your hardwood and subfloor. Each method needs specific tools and techniques.

Nail-Down Installation (Common for Solid Hardwood)

This method works well for solid hardwood floors over wooden subfloors like plywood. Use a flooring nailer or stapler to attach each board.

  • Best for: Solid hardwood over wood subfloors

  • Tools needed: Flooring nailer, mallet, air compressor

  • Pros: Very secure and long-lasting

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate (needs precision and the right tools)

Glue-Down Installation

Great for engineered hardwood over concrete, this method uses adhesive on the subfloor to hold the boards.

  • Best for: Engineered hardwood over concrete

  • Tools needed: Flooring adhesive, notched trowel, floor roller

  • Pros: Strong bond and low profile

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate to high (messier and needs ventilation)

Floating Installation (Click-Lock)

Popular for DIYers, this method uses click-lock engineered hardwood. Planks lock and float over underlayment without nails or glue.

  • Best for: Click-lock engineered hardwood over any flat surface

  • Tools needed: Spacers, tapping block, underlayment

  • Pros: Fast, clean, beginner-friendly

  • DIY Difficulty: Easy

Pro Tip: For solid hardwood over wood subfloors, nail-down is often best. For engineered hardwood, floating floors are popular due to easy installation.

Step 4: Mark Guidelines and Snap Chalk Lines

Before starting, make a straight line to help you install the boards correctly.

Mark a Line by the First Wall
Find the first wall, usually the longest one. Measure one board’s width (with the gap) and make a chalk line next to that wall. This line is your guide for the first row.

Use the Line to Keep Rows Even
When putting down boards, line them up with the chalk line. This keeps the floor straight across the room.

Leave a 1/2″ Gap Around the Edges
Wood changes size with humidity. Use spacers to keep a 1/2-inch gap between the floor and walls or other fixed objects. This stops the floor from bending.

Step 5: Lay the First Row of Planks

Trim Door Jambs if Needed
Before you lay the first plank, check if it needs to go under door trims. Use a saw to cut the door jambs so the planks fit neatly.

Start with Groove Side Facing the Wall
Put the first plank with the groove side to the wall. This helps the next row lock in easily. Start on the longest wall to keep the floor straight.

Secure the First Row
Install the first row based on your method:

  • Nail-down: Use a nailer to fix the boards into the floor through the tongue.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue with a trowel and press each plank firmly.

  • Floating (click-lock): Angle and click the second plank into the first.

Make sure the planks are tight without gaps.

Use Spacers to Maintain Expansion Gaps
Put 1/2″ spacers between the planks and the wall. This gap lets the wood expand with humidity and temperature, stopping it from buckling.

Step 6: Install the Remaining Flooring

Once the first row is set and straight, keep adding your hardwood planks row by row.

Stagger the End Joints for Stability
To make the floor look natural and strong, stagger the end joints by at least 6 inches. Don’t line up joints in a row, as it weakens the floor.

Use a Tapping Block for a Tight Fit
Put a tapping block on the edge of each plank and lightly tap with a mallet to close gaps. This makes sure each board fits snugly without harming the tongue or groove.

Secure Boards Based on Your Method

  • Nail-down: Nail through the tongue at a 45° angle every 6–8 inches.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue evenly and press planks firmly.

  • Floating floor: Click boards together on all sides.

Check for Level Frequently
Every few rows, use a level to make sure the floor stays flat. Fix any issues before moving on to avoid problems later.

Step 7: Cut Boards to Fit Edges and Corners

When you get to walls or obstacles in the room, cut the last planks to fit.

Measure and Mark Carefully
Use a tape measure to find the space left, taking off 1/2″ for an expansion gap. Mark your plank with a pencil or chalk.

Use the Right Saw for the Job

  • Miter saw: Best for straight cuts.

  • Jigsaw: Good for curved cuts around vents and door frames.

Cut on a stable surface and wear safety glasses to protect your eyes.

Maintain Expansion Gaps
Leave a 1/2″ gap between the floor and vertical surfaces. This lets the hardwood expand and contract naturally.

Step 8: Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips

Reattach Baseboards and Shoe Molding
After installing your hardwood, make the room neat by putting back the baseboards around the edges. If you had shoe molding before, put that back as well for a nice look.

Install Transition Strips
In doorways or where hardwood joins another floor type, add transition strips. Use T-moldings, reducers, or threshold transitions based on the height and type of the floor next to it.

Leave Room for Movement
When attaching trim, do not fix it directly to the hardwood. This can stop it from moving and cause buckling. Trim should be fixed to the wall or subfloor, not the floating floor.

Step 9: Clean and Inspect Your Floor

After the flooring is installed, clean and check your new hardwood floor to make sure it looks good before using it.

Sweep and Vacuum Well
Use a broom or a vacuum with a soft brush to clear away any sawdust or debris. This helps you see the floor clearly and prevents scratches.

Look for Problems
Check for gaps, uneven planks, or noises when walking. Use a tapping block to fix any misaligned boards or follow your installation method for adjustments.

Allow the Floor to Settle
If glued down, wait 24–48 hours before adding furniture or rugs. This gives time for the glue to set properly.

Pro Tips for a Successful Hardwood Installation

To get a professional look with hardwood floors, you need to prepare well and be precise. These tips will help you work smarter and avoid problems:

  • Always check for moisture with a moisture meter before installing. This stops future cupping or buckling.

  • Wear knee pads to protect your knees during long hours of work, and make sure you have good ventilation when using glue.

  • Check alignment every few rows to keep planks straight and even.

  • Work in small sections instead of doing the whole room at once. This keeps quality high.

  • Take your time cutting. Clean, precise cuts make tight seams and look professional.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Hardwood

Even skilled DIYers can make mistakes if they don’t avoid these common issues:

  • Skipping the acclimation period can make wood expand or shrink after installation.

  • Ignoring subfloor moisture and flatness causes instability, noise, or gaps.

  • Not staggering seams makes the floor weaker and uneven.

  • Nailing too close to the edge of a plank can cause splits or cracks.

  • Not using spacers leaves no room for expansion, leading to buckling.

DIY vs. Professional Hardwood Installation

Putting in hardwood floors yourself can save money and be satisfying, but it’s not for everyone. Here’s how to know if you should DIY or hire experts.

DIY Pros:

  • Spend less on the whole project

  • Control when and how fast you work

  • Feel proud of doing it yourself

DIY Cons:

  • It’s hard work and takes time

  • Needs careful planning and special tools

  • Mistakes can be expensive

Professional Installation Pros:

  • Quick, expert work with little hassle

  • Includes prep, leveling, and cleaning up

  • Usually comes with a warranty

Professional Installation Cons:

  • Costs more for labor

  • Less control over the schedule

📊 Side-by-Side Comparison Table

Tool / MaterialSolid Hardwood (Nail-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Glue-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Floating/Click-Lock)Purpose
Tape Measure✔✔✔Measure layout and planks
Chalk Line✔✔✔Mark layout lines
Pry Bar✔✔✔Remove old flooring/baseboards
Moisture Meter✔✔✔Check subfloor moisture
Level✔✔✔Ensure even subfloor
SpacersOptional✔✔Maintain expansion gap at walls
Flooring Nailer / Stapler✔✘✘Secure solid planks to subfloor
Flooring Adhesive✘✔✘Glue engineered wood to subfloor
Trowel (for adhesive)✘✔✘Spread adhesive evenly
Click-Lock Installation Kit✘✘✔Includes tapping block, pull bar, spacers
Miter Saw✔✔✔Make crosscuts on planks
Jigsaw / Oscillating Tool✔✔✔Trim around obstacles
Safety Glasses✔✔✔Eye protection while cutting
Knee Pads
FeatureDIY InstallationProfessional Installation
Average Cost per Sq Ft$3 – $8 (materials + tools)$7 – $18 (includes labor)
Best ForBudget-conscious, handy homeownersBusy homeowners, large or complex jobs
Time CommitmentSeveral days or weekends1–2 days (typical)
Risk of MistakesModerate to highLow
Tool Investment Required✔❌ (provided by installer)
SatisfactionHigh (if done well)High (with professional finish)

👉 For a full breakdown of costs, methods, and scenarios, visit our Hardwood Flooring Cost Guide